Graz, Austria · Austria
Graz City Guide - Clock Tower, Murinsel, Courtyards
A tram rattles past a Baroque facade, bells ring above the red rooftops, and minutes later a blue building looks like it landed from another planet. Graz keeps its history close and its experiments closer.
Published October 21, 2026
A tram rattles past a Baroque facade, a church bell rings somewhere above the red rooftops, and a few minutes later you are staring at a blue building that looks like it landed from another planet. That contrast is the whole point of this **Graz city guide**. Austria's second city keeps its history close and its experiments closer.
Graz rarely makes the first list of Austrian city breaks, which works in its favour. The streets feel lived in rather than staged. Students fill the cafe terraces, market traders call out across the squares, and a wooded hill rises straight out of the centre. Most of what you want to see sits within walking distance, so a pair of good shoes matters more than a plan. Here is how to spend your time.
What Makes the Graz Old Town Worth Exploring?
The **Graz old town** is a compact, pedestrian-friendly historic centre where Renaissance, Baroque and later facades stand shoulder to shoulder along narrow lanes and open squares. Its architectural heritage is protected, and the historic centre is recognised by UNESCO as part of a World Heritage Site, which you can read about on the [UNESCO World Heritage listing](https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/931). For a first-time visitor, it is a place best read slowly, one doorway at a time.
Start at the Hauptplatz, the main square, with the town hall watching over the market stalls and tram stops. From there, Herrengasse runs as the main shopping street. Look up. Several houses carry painted facades and ornate window frames that most people walk straight past while checking their phones.
Side lanes branch off in every direction. Sporgasse climbs gently with old shop signs hanging above the doors. Around the Glockenspielplatz, carved figures appear in a window high on a gabled house to the sound of bells at set times of day.
Wander without a map for an hour. The centre is small enough that you will always find your way back to a square you recognise.
What Can You See on the Schlossberg?
The Schlossberg is the wooded hill that rises directly above the rooftops, a former fortress site turned into the city's favourite park. Locals jog its paths, couples sit on its benches, and visitors come for the view over the river Mur and the sea of red tiles below.
**Schlossberg Graz** is crowned by the Uhrturm, the clock tower that serves as the symbol of the city. Its large clock face is easy to spot from almost anywhere in the centre. Take a moment to study the hands up close. Something about them looks slightly off, and figuring out why is part of the fun.
There are several ways up. Stone stairs zigzag up the rock face for those who want the climb, a funicular railway makes the trip at a gentler pace, and a lift runs inside the hill itself. Operating details change, so check the [official tourism board](https://www.graztourismus.at/) before you go.
Once at the top, keep walking beyond the clock tower. Quieter paths lead past old walls, a bell tower and garden terraces. Late afternoon light turns the rooftops warm orange, and the viewpoints feel calmer than at midday.
How Does Modern Architecture Shape the City?
Graz has a habit of placing bold modern buildings right next to its oldest streets, and somehow it works. The clash feels intentional, a city confident enough to mix centuries without apology.
The Kunsthaus is the most striking example. Its rounded blue skin, studded with nozzle-like openings on the roof, sits among traditional houses like a giant sea creature. Many people call it the friendly alien, and once you see it the nickname sticks. It works as a space for contemporary art, run by the regional museum group, and its programme rotates regularly. The [museum website](https://www.museum-joanneum.at/) lists what is on during your visit.
Down on the water sits the **Murinsel**, a sculptural platform floating in the Mur. Shaped like a twisted shell of steel and glass, it serves as a pedestrian link across the water and a spot to pause above the current. Its curves change with the light, which makes it a favourite with photographers.
The best way to appreciate this side of Graz is from above. Look down from the Schlossberg and you will spot the blue curves of the Kunsthaus breaking the pattern of red roofs. That single view explains the city better than any brochure.
Where Are the Best Courtyards and Market Corners?
The hidden **courtyards of Graz** are the old town's quiet secret. Behind heavy wooden doors and narrow passages lie arcaded galleries, fountains and pockets of greenery that the main streets never hint at.
The Landhaus courtyard is the classic starting point, with tiered Renaissance arcades wrapped around an open space. Many other courtyards belong to private buildings. If a door stands open, a respectful look is usually fine, but keep your voice down and step back out if residents are around. Some passages link two streets, so you can cut through the block and emerge somewhere unexpected.
For a different kind of energy, head to the **Kaiser-Josef market** in the morning. Farmers bring fruit, vegetables, flowers, cheese and cured meats from the surrounding countryside, and the chatter between regulars is half the show. Arrive early for the best choice and the liveliest atmosphere.
Keep an eye out for pumpkin seed oil, the dark green speciality of Styria. Locals drizzle it over salads, soups and even ice cream. A small bottle makes a practical souvenir, and many market stalls sell it straight from local producers.
How Do You Plan a Relaxed Visit to Graz?
The easiest way to experience Graz is to split your visit into two calm halves. Spend one half day walking the old town, starting at the main square, following Herrengasse and the side lanes, and slipping into courtyards whenever a door stands open. Use the other half day for the Schlossberg and the modern landmarks, climbing or riding up to the clock tower, wandering the hilltop paths, then coming down to the river for the Murinsel and the Kunsthaus. Add an early morning at the Kaiser-Josef market if you have an extra few hours. Comfortable shoes are essential because the hill paths are steep in places and the old town is paved with uneven stone. Leave room for coffee breaks on the squares, since watching the city go by is one of the most rewarding **things to do in Graz**, and no part of the centre demands a rush.
Timing is flexible. Spring and autumn bring mild weather for walking. Summer offers long evenings on the hill, while winter wraps the old town in a cosy, festive mood.
Getting around is simple. Most sights sit close together, and trams and buses fill the gaps. The city's [transport operator](https://www.holding-graz.at/) has route maps and ticket information if you plan to ride.
Ready to Plan Your Own Graz Itinerary?
Create your own itinerary with Keptour, add the places that catch your eye, arrange them into days and share the plan with whoever is coming along.
Then leave some gaps in the schedule. The courtyard you stumble into or the bench you find on the Schlossberg at sunset will probably end up being the part of Graz you talk about most.