Kaunas · Lithuania
Kaunas, Lithuania: A Self-Guided Tour of Europe's Modernist Capital
Everyone books Vilnius, but Lithuania's second city hides a UNESCO-listed modernist skyline, riverside old streets and a funicular. Here is how to plan Kaunas on your own.
Published September 28, 2026
Most travellers to Lithuania head straight for Vilnius. Kaunas, the country's second city, gets far less attention, and that is exactly why it suits people who like to plan their own trip. Between the two world wars it served as the country's temporary capital, and it built itself a confident, modern face in record time.
Why Kaunas is different
In 2023 UNESCO added the city's interwar modernist architecture to the World Heritage List. There is no single monument to queue for. The heritage is spread across the whole city: white façades, rounded corners, big windows and public buildings from the 1920s and 30s. That makes it ideal for a self-guided walk, where you set the pace and the route.
What to see
- Old Town: brick lanes, Town Hall Square and castle ruins where the Nemunas and Neris rivers meet.
- Laisvės alėja: the long pedestrian boulevard that runs through the New Town, lined with cafés and interwar buildings.
- Žaliakalnis: a residential hill district with modernist villas and the Church of Christ's Resurrection, a landmark with views over the city. You can ride the historic funicular up.
- M. K. Čiurlionis National Art Museum: a good rainy-day stop dedicated to Lithuania's most famous painter-composer.
- Ninth Fort: a former fortress on the outskirts, now a memorial museum about the Holocaust and the Soviet period. It is a sobering visit, so give it time and quiet.
A simple two-day plan
Day one: Old Town in the morning, Laisvės alėja and the New Town in the afternoon, dinner with a plate of cepelinai (potato dumplings), a classic Lithuanian dish. Day two: climb Žaliakalnis, then decide between the museums and the Ninth Fort.
Practical tips
- Kaunas is compact and easy to explore on foot, and it also works well by bike.
- It connects to Vilnius by train and bus. Check current timetables before you go rather than relying on old information.
- Summer is lively, but winters can be cold, so pack accordingly if you visit off-season.
- Opening hours of museums and churches change with the season, so check them on the day.
Conclusion
Kaunas rewards travellers who look beyond the obvious capital. It is walkable, affordable to explore on your own terms and full of stories that guidebooks often skip. Add it to your Baltic route, or make it the reason for the trip.