Phnom Penh, Cambodia · Cambodia
Phnom Penh City Guide - Palace, River, Markets and Art Deco
At dusk the Phnom Penh riverfront fills with aerobics groups, kites and grilled corn. This guide follows the city from gilded palace roofs to a yellow Art Deco market dome and noodle soup for breakfast.
Published October 19, 2026
At dusk the riverfront fills up. Aerobics groups follow a speaker blasting pop, kids chase kites on the lawn in front of the palace, and a vendor flips grilled corn over charcoal. This is where the Mekong, the Tonle Sap and the Bassac rivers come together, and the Cambodian capital grew up around that meeting point.
This **Phnom Penh city guide** follows the city the way a first-time visitor meets it. Gilded palace roofs in the morning, a yellow Art Deco market dome at midday, noodle soup for breakfast and long walks by the water once the heat drops.
What Makes the Royal Palace Worth Visiting?
The **Royal Palace** is the official residence of the King of Cambodia, a walled compound of tiered Khmer rooftops, tall golden spires and manicured gardens beside the river. Inside the same grounds stands the Silver Pagoda, named for the floor of silver tiles that covers its main hall, which also shelters the small, revered Emerald Buddha. Visitors must cover shoulders and knees to enter.
Start at the Throne Hall, where coronations and royal ceremonies take place. The Moonlight Pavilion faces the street and is the facade most people photograph from outside the walls.
Around the Silver Pagoda, a long gallery of murals tells the Reamker, the Cambodian version of the Ramayana. Most visitors walk straight past it. Slow down here.
Parts of the compound close when the king is in residence or during ceremonies. Expect a security check at the gate.
Right next door, the National Museum of Cambodia sits in a red Khmer-style pavilion. Its galleries hold a rich collection of Angkor-period sculpture, arranged around a quiet courtyard garden with lily ponds. Pair the two in one morning, palace first while the light is soft.
How Do You Spend a Day Along the Riverside?
**Sisowath Quay** is the long promenade that runs beside the Tonle Sap, and it is the city's living room. Cafes and bars line the land side, the water side belongs to joggers, monks, couples and families on plastic mats.
The Tonle Sap does something unusual. During the rainy season it reverses direction and flows back toward the great lake upstream. Locals mark the turn with the Water Festival boat races, a recurring celebration on this stretch of river.
Walk south toward the palace at sunset, when the confluence known as Chaktomuk turns copper. From there it is a short ride inland to the Independence Monument on Norodom Boulevard, a lotus-shaped tower inspired by Angkor architecture and lit up in the evening.
Save the north end of the quay for Wat Phnom. This small hilltop temple gave the city its name, from the legend of Daun Penh, a woman who found Buddha statues in the river and built a shrine for them on the hill.
Midday heat is fierce, so walk early or late and rest in between. A tuk-tuk joins the sights in minutes. Agree the fare before you climb in, or use a ride-hailing app.
Why Is Central Market a Must for Art Deco Fans?
The **Central Market**, known locally as Psar Thmei, is the city's most striking building. A huge yellow dome rises at its centre, with four long wings stretching out like the arms of a cross. It is a fine example of Art Deco design, softened with Khmer touches.
Under the dome, glass counters glitter with gold jewellery, gemstones and watches. The wings hold clothing, fabrics, souvenirs, flowers and fruit. Look up before you look down. The ventilation slats in the dome let breezes and light filter through, an early answer to tropical heat without air conditioning.
The streets around the market and toward the river keep traces of the French colonial era too. Shuttered shophouses and faded villas near the old post office area reward a slow wander.
Bargaining is expected, but keep it friendly. Compare a few stalls, smile and carry small notes so sellers do not have to hunt for change. Crowds thicken in the aisles, so keep your phone and wallet close.
What Is Special About Russian Market?
The **Russian Market**, or Psar Toul Tom Poung, is a low, tin-roofed maze south of the centre. Aisles narrow to a single shoulder width, and every turn reveals a different trade, from silk and lacquerware to motorbike parts, antiques and stacks of clothing.
The nickname comes from the Russian expatriates who used to shop here. It stuck long after they left.
This is the place for gifts. Look for a **krama scarf**, the checked cotton cloth Cambodians wear as a scarf, sun hat, towel or baby sling. You will also find silver boxes, carved wooden figures, pepper from Kampot and tailors who can copy a favourite shirt in a few days.
Go in the morning. Under the metal roof the air heats up fast, and by early afternoon the aisles feel like an oven. Wear light clothes and bring water.
Bargain gently and walk away politely if the number does not suit you. Nobody takes offence.
When you need a break, head to the food corner in the middle. Noodle soup and sweet iced coffee keep stallholders going, and visitors too.
What Should You Eat in Phnom Penh?
Phnom Penh is a wonderful **street food** city. Look for fish amok, a fragrant coconut curry steamed in banana leaf until it sets like a soft mousse. Order lok lak, stir-fried beef served with a dip of lime juice and black pepper. Start a morning with kuy teav, a clear rice noodle soup, or with num banh chok, rice noodles under a green fish curry with fresh herbs.
Kampot pepper, grown in the south of the country, turns up everywhere, and its fresh green clusters in a stir-fry are a revelation.
Breakfast is the meal to eat locally. Noodle shops open early and empty by mid-morning.
Market food corners, riverside restaurants and family kitchens down side streets all deliver. Several social enterprise restaurants in the city train young Cambodians in cooking and hospitality, so a meal there supports a career as well as filling your plate.
Finish with Cambodian iced coffee, sweetened with condensed milk, or a cup of sugarcane juice pressed in front of you. Choose busy stalls with fast turnover and drink bottled or filtered water. If you avoid shrimp paste or fish sauce, ask before ordering.
How Do You Visit History Sites Respectfully?
Phnom Penh holds sites that remember the Khmer Rouge period, among them the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Choeung Ek memorial outside the city. They are places of remembrance, not attractions. Whether you go, and how much time you give them, is a personal choice. Consider the emotional weight before visiting, dress modestly, speak softly and respect signs that ask for no photos. The [museum website](https://www.tuolsleng.gov.kh/en) explains the site and visiting arrangements.
How Can You Plan Your Days in Phnom Penh?
Two or three days cover the main things to do in Phnom Penh at a relaxed pace. The cooler dry season, roughly November to February, is the most comfortable time to walk. Tuk-tuks and your own feet handle the centre. The [official tourism board](https://www.tourismcambodia.com/) has broader trip ideas.
Check entry rules on the [official e-visa portal](https://www.evisa.gov.kh/) before you fly.
Create your own itinerary with Keptour: add the places that catch your eye, arrange them into days and share the plan with whoever is coming along.
Then let the city set the pace. Keep mornings slow, give the river your evenings and stay curious at every market table.